If you read my post re: installing the R&G Racing Frame Sliders, then you know that I advocate the complete removal of the 650R's bodywork in order to fully expose the frame. The process is the same for both sides. So here's how it's done.
(One more thing to note. These instructions are for removing the fairing for the purpose of installing the sliders. It does not include removal of the front cowl and headlight assembly. However once you do all this, I can't imagine that it's too tough to figure out the rest.)
Tools Used:
- Ratchet
- 3/8" driver ratchet extension
- 4mm hex key driver
- No. 2 phillips head screwdriver
- Flat head screwdriver
Using the ratchet with the extension and 4mm hex key driver, remove the four 4mm hex socket screws holding the windscreen in place (two per side). Place these screws by themselves so they don't get mixed up with other similar screws.
NOTE: All of these screws have transparent plastic washers. Be careful that you do not lose them or drop them as you remove the screws. I use a magnetic tray to hold all of the fasteners. Unfortunately, not all of the fasteners are magnetic, but it's better than nothing.
The windscreen with the screws removed:
Gently pull the top of the windscreen towards the front of the bike to lift it off. There is a tape-like gasket on either side of the windscreen. Be careful not to remove it. On my bike, one side stayed on the cowl, the other stayed on the windscreen. There is a tab at the front of the windscreen to attach it to the cowl. Pull the windscreen out of the slot and store it somewhere safe.
Windscreen tab:
Next, you need to remove the side cockpit trim panels on either side of the instrument pod. There should be two 4mm hex socket screws each. Remove them, and the trim panel should easily slide back and out. Place these screws together so they don't get mixed up with the windscreen screws.
NOTE: I forgot to take a picture at this step. Ninja 650R owners should know what I'm talking about, but I'll get a pick and insert it here tomorrow if I get a chance.
On both sides of the instrument pod, you should now see a phillips head screw. Remove these screws with a No. 2 phillips head screwdriver. These hold both the upper fairing as well as the instrument pod cowl. You should now be able to remove the instrument pod cowl.
REINSTALLATION NOTE: When reinstalling the instrument pod cowl, be sure that it is seated firmly on the plastic silver side pieces and not on the windscreen's gasket if the gasket decided to stick with the bike.
Removing the instrument pod cowl will reveal another screw that is holding the upper fairing on. This is the screw that was omitted from the YouTube video I saw. There is also another screw on the bottom of the nose beneath the headlight. Remove these two screws with a No. 2 phillips head screwdriver.
Second screw hidden by instrument pod cowl (top):
Now that the top of the bike is exposed, let's go down to the bottom and work our way back up. The lower fairing halves are connected at the bottom by what I call push-plug fasteners. They are basically plastic grommets that get pushed into a hole, and then a central plunger is pushed in, which splays the "legs" of the grommet, preventing it from coming out. There are three of these to remove: one on the front of the lower fairing and two on the bottom.
Take a flathead screwdriver, place the tip in the notch of the ring, and pry up the edge of the central plunger. Eventually, the plunger will pull up all the way, and you can then pull it out the rest of the way. Here is what it looks like after it has been removed.
REINSTALLATION NOTE: To reinstall, simply line up the lower fairings, push the plug into the hole, and then push down the central plunger.
The lower fairing is also connected by three 4mm hex socket screws. (See picture below.) The screw towards the rear (left in the picture) has a grommet, and it can only be mounted here. The other two screws (four total) need to be put somewhere separate from the windscreen and cockpit trim panel screws, because they are longer. Even if screws are the same, I like to try to put the screws back where they came from. In fact, I had one screw that would not go in even though it was the same as its partner, but when I tried its partner, it went right in without any problem.
Lower fairing showing three screws:
Even without the screws now, there are two plastic clips holding the lower and upper fairings together. The picture below shows one, but there's another one towards the front that I didn't discover until I was reinstalling the bodywork. To remove the lower fairing, gently pull the bottom of the fairing out and slight up. You will hear a loud snap, which should be the clips unsnapping. Hopefully you didn't actually break anything. Set the lower fairings aside and out of the way.
Inside clip connecting lower and upper fairings:
This should leave one 4mm hex socket screw holding the upper fairing to the bike. Again, this screw has a grommet and can only be installed at this location.
NOTE 1: The picture below shows the cockpit trim panel still in place. This is because I took the picture when I was working on the right side and did not fully remove the bodywork. Following these directions, the panel at the top of the picture and the screw holding it on will have already been removed.
NOTE 2: These four screws (two per side) will actually stick to the magnetic tray.
Upper fairing fasteners:
At this point, the upper fairing is pretty much being held on by a slot connector up front and a snap-in mounting point down low. The picture below shows the snap-in mount on the left side:
Upper fairing mount:
A gentle tug will pull the upper fairing free of the snap-in mount, and you should be able to simply slide the upper fairing towards the front of the bike to free it from the bike.
CAUTION: There is a wire connecting the turn signal to the electrical system. Be sure to disconnect the turn signal and pull the connecting wire free of the retention rings on the inside of the upper fairing.
Inside of upper fairing (note the wire and retention ring:
Upper fairing mounting slot in cowl:
Turn signal plug:
You should now have full access to the frame on both sides.
To reinstall the bodywork, simply reverse the steps. I've made a few reinstallation notes along the way.
ALTERNATE PROCESS: Remove the lower fairings first, and then start at the top.
DISCLAIMER: This blog is purely for information sharing purposes. Anything you do to your bike is at your sole discretion, and I cannot be held responsible for any badness that may occur while attempting any of these activities.
Thanks a million. I followed that video and was at a loss as to why the fairing didn't want to come off. This page finally helped me get it off and replace the clutch cable.
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